Tanami Road
27 April 2012
April 18th.
Bad night at Halls Creek Motel, the bed is way too soft. oh well, at least the shower works. First stop today : Halls Creek Hospital. Nothing serious but Claire has had an ear infection for a while, it’s been treated in New Cal but it’s still sore. I convinced her to have it checked out before two weeks of sand and limited water.
The very nice doctor confirmed it, it’s an ear-canal otitis, no drama but she gave us a couple of drops to put in every night. Very funny middle-aged doctor, the kind you wish all docs were, not the fussy over-medication let’s-send-you-to-the-hospital-right-away doctor you find these days. Mid-sixty, probably divorced, very concerned but very pragmatic and very funny too. Kinda like your grandma.
Just after 10AM, we’re off the bitumen and the Tanami starts.
The temperature this afternoon is still too high to climb up and down so we decide to check it out in the morning, at sunrise. It’s very dry, meaning no mosquitoes at all, only the damn flies.
Distance today: 153km, total: 13073km.
April 19th.
The sun woke us up just before 6AM and we quickly pack our stuff, have coffee then walk up the crater and walk down its center. The sun isn’t high enough yet so there is a big shaded area in the center of the crater, where the vegetation is thick. On the way up, a red ringed-tailed lizard poses for the camera for a good 15min and we enjoy its company, until it decided it had enough and runs for cover. Probably the eagles have spotted our friend already and it’s all for the best.
Further down the road, Balgo, an Aboriginal community, currently home to the largest indigenous art center in Australia. The painting are just spectacular but sold at a high price, starting off 400AUD to a whopping 2000AUD for the more renowned artists. Still, definitely worth a look. They also have a proper recording studio and cinema equipment where local directors can shoot and edit their stuff.
Some 100k later we cross the NT border, and lose 90min into the next timezone.
Distance today: 335km, total: 13408km.
April 20th.
A new timezone means when the sun is up, it’s closer to 7AM than before. I like these lazy mornings a lot !
Not much to see today, we drive for nearly 6 hours, to the next community, Yuendumu, the second largest Aboriginal community in OZ, with a population of about 800 people. It’s a good place to refuel, shop a bit and get some local info about the place. Sadly, large population means some violence and riots often occur in the community, hence the strong police presence.
On the way into Yuendumu, we pick up the trip’s mascot, and name him Tanami. Tanami was laying face down in the dirt, he had a botched patch over his missing right eye, and desperately needs a good bath ! He will sit on the bullbar for now, until he’s been cleaned up and brushed and properly looked after.
We passed a few roadtrains, the first we’ve seen since we left Halls Creek actually, which indicated Alice Springs, and the surrounding mines and outstations aren’t far.
Distance today: 454km, total: 13862km.
April 21st.
This is our last bit on the Tanami Road, to the one and only remaining roadhouse since the Rabbit Flat closed earlier this year. Tilmouth Roadhouse claims to be “An Oasis On The Tanami”. Well, it’s actually very true : green grass, laundry, shower, fresh (bore) water, and… a swimming pool ! A good place to camp I reckon !
And a great place to relax. After we’ve cleaned the car, done our laundry, had a very long shower, baked some bread and enjoyed the pool (very cold though, but such a blessing after so many days of dust and limited water supplies), we made our way to the restaurant (yes the roadhouse is also a restaurant). Fish and chips ! Nice ! We were the only two customers, both in the campground and in the restaurant so the staff was extra nice.
Back to the tent, we can hear the first raindrops which will be followed by thunder and more rain throughout the night. A true oasis !
Distance today: 66km, total: 13928km.
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